Day 6 - Monday, April 17
We rented another bus today to drive us about 2 hours north to Assisi. We explored the basilica and the town before heading to the valley below to visit the Basilica of St. Mary of the Angels. From there, we drove about an hour and a half southwest to visit the small hilltop village of Civita di Bagnoregio to take in the views.
Where We Went
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Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi
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Church of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva in Assisi
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Basilica of St. Mary of the Angels
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Civita di Bagnoregio
1. Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi
Italian: Basilica di San Francesco d'Assisi
The destination of so many pilgrims is the tomb of Francis, which lies deep beneath the basilica. Its humble elegance befits the saint who preached simplicity. The saint’s remains — in a stone box with iron ties — are one of the most important Christian relics anywhere.
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The series of frescoes above the altar is by Giotto, the most powerful storyteller of his day. Three scenes represent the vows of the Franciscans: obedience, chastity, and poverty. Francis kneels in front of Lady Obedience, Chastity is in her tower of purity, flanked by two angels, and Lady Poverty is in her patched wedding dress. Francis, about to marry her, slips a ring on her finger as Jesus blesses the union. And high above is Francis on a heavenly throne. After a life of earthly simplicity, he enjoys glory in heaven.
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Source: Rick Steves
Notable relics in this basilica
The relics of St. Francis of Assisi
Lower & upper basilicas visible
Exterior of the upper basilica
Interior of the basilica with Giotto's frescos
2. Church of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva in Assisi
(Not to be confused with Santa Maria Sopra Minerva in Rome)
The temple of Minerva in the town of Assisi, in Umbria, appears to be a perfectly preserved example of a Roman temple from the outside but inside is home to a Catholic church.
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The Roman building was named during the 1st century BC, probably as part of the town’s forum. The structure is a typical Roman temple with six tall Corinthians columns supporting the architrave in the façade. The temple was erroneously attributed to Minerva because of a female statue located inside the building, but later studies found a dedication stone to Hercules.
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During the Early Middle Ages, the cella of the temple was transformed into a church and later into dwellings and workshops. During the 13th century, the temple became the city hall of Assisi, which included a tribunal and a jail.
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In 1539, at the behest of Pope Paul III, the temple was finally transformed into a Catholic church known as Santa Maria Sopra Minerva. These restoration works went on into the 17th century, however, the cella was completely demolished and the building was reworked in a Baroque style. A bell tower known as Torre del Popolo (Tower of the People) was also added.
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Source: Atlas Obscura
Exterior of the church
Interior of the church
Beautiful view of Assisi on the way back to the bus
3. Basilica of Saint Mary of the Angels Assisi
Italian: Basilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli (Not to be confused with the basilica of the same name in Rome)
The story of St. Francis starts in the Basilica of Maria degli Angeli, located in the modern town in the valley below Assisi. It's here that Francis restored a small chapel and established the Franciscan order. Centuries later, to accommodate the many pilgrims wanting to pay homage to St. Francis, a grand church was built surrounding the chapel, which now sits directly under the dome. (I wonder what humble Francis would think of the huge church built over his tiny chapel?) Nearby is the small cell where Francis died. Source: Rick Steves
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Outside the basilica is the Roselo, or Rose Garden. Here, you will find a very special type of rose: one without any thorns! In this location, Saint Francis himself rolled naked amongst the thorn bushes, in order to combat doubt and temptation. It is then said that on contact with the Saint’s body, thorn-less roses began to bloom, and they still do to this day! These special flowers can only be found in this particular rose garden, and are named Rosa Canina Assisiensis. On the wall of the courtyard, you can see a mural of St. Francis, surrounded by the modest Porziuncola chapel, olive groves, and of course, thorn-less red roses. Source: https://www.caftours.com/magazine/rose-thorns/index.html
Exterior of the basilica
Inside the small chapel of St. Francis
Interior of the church featuring St. Francis's chapel
The Rose Garden outside of the basilica
4. Civita di Bagnoregio, Italy
The town teeters atop a crest rising high above a vast canyon ruled by wind and erosion. The saddle of earth that once connected Civita to its bigger and busier sister town, Bagnoregio, has worn away. Today, the only way in or out is by a footbridge. Supplies are ferried in on mopeds.
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The main entrance is a huge stone passageway, cut by the Etruscans 2,500 years ago and decorated in the 12th century with a Romanesque arch. Passing through the portal, you enter another world —one stuck in the Middle Ages. You can feel history in the smooth cobblestones under your feet. Inside the gate, the charms of Civita are subtle. Those searching for arcade tourism won't know where to look. There are no lists of attractions, orientation tours, or museum hours. It's just Italy.
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Civita has one famous son, St. Bonaventure, the "second founder" of the Franciscan order. His home is long gone, but the basic grid plan of the old town survives, with a church as its centerpiece. The identity of this holy place of worship has rotated with the centuries: An Etruscan temple, then a Roman temple, rose here before today's Catholic church. Ancient pillars from those pagan temples stand like giant bar stools just outside the church door. To beat the heat, I like to step inside and enjoy a quiet moment in a pew.
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The main piazza is the heartbeat and pride of the village, the spot where festivals and processions start, visitors are escorted, and the town's past is honored. Wild donkey races take place here in June and September, and at Christmastime, a living nativity scene is enacted in the square. Civita's young people are gone, lured away by the dazzle of more modern places where they can take part in Italy's cosmopolitan parade. And as old people become frail, they move into apartments in nearby Bagnoregio. With the permanent population dwindling, Civita is becoming a weekend getaway for wealthy urbanites, who are slowly buying up the place. The remaining full-time families cater to visitors.
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Source: Rick Steves
Walking up the footbridge
The charm of the old town
One of the many wild cats of the town
Heading down the footbridge back to the bus
