Day 8 - Wednesday, April 19
We spent the day on the west side of the Tiber River, in the quiet neighborhood of Trastevere. A wonderful last day of our pilgrimage.
Where We Went
-
Basilica of St. Bartholomew on the Island
-
Basilica of St. Cecilia in Trastevere
-
Basilica of Our Lady in Trastevere
-
Basilica of St Chrysogonus
1. Basilica of St. Bartholomew on the Island
Italian: Basilica di San Bartolomeo all'Isola
The part of the island where stood the ancient temple of Æsculapius, is now occupied by the church and Franciscan monastery of S. Bartolomeo. The church was built by the Emperor Otho III, about the year 983, to receive the body of the Apostle, St. Bartholomew, translated from Lipari to Benevento in 809, and from Benevento to Rome in 983.
The pillar in the piazza in front of the church was erected by Pope Pius IX, as a memorial of the opening of the Vatican Council.
Notable relics in this basilica
St. Bartholomew, St. Paulinus of Nola and St. Adalbertus, bishop and martyr
Exterior of the basilica
Praying in front of the relics of St. Bartholomew
2. Basilica Santa Cecilia in Trastevere
Originally the family mansion of St. Cecilia, it was converted into a church by St. Urban in 230, in accordance with her dying request. The approach is by a spacious courtyard, on the right of which is a large marble cantharus, or vase, belonging probably to the original palace. The bell tower dates from 1120.
The delicate carving of the drapery should be noticed. The Blessed Sacrament is usually reserved in the first chapel of the right aisle. Next to this is the Caldarium, or bathroom, where St. Cecilia was martyred, with the original pipes along the wall for conveying steam from the boiler. The marble slab on the altar is the one on which she was struck by the executioner, and above it is an exquisite painting of her martyrdom by Guido Reni. On the opposite wall a striking picture, by Domenichino, represents an angel crowning Cecilia and her young spouse Valerian.
Martyrdom of St. Cecilia , A.D. 230. - Cecilia alone remained, and as Almachius, the judge, thought it best that her punishment should be as secret as possible, he ordered that she should be shut up in the Caldarium, or room of the warm bath in her own palace and that the pipes with which the walls on all sides were perforated, should be heated to such a degree as to cause suffocation. Cecilia entered the room the furnace being heated, and though she remained there for a whole day and night, she was found to be unhurt by the hot steam that scalded those who opened the door. Almachius then sent one of the lictors with orders to strike off her head.
Three times did the axe fall upon her tender neck, inflicting deep and mortal wounds, but without severing the head. As the law did not allow more than three strokes to be given, the executioner went away, leaving her still breathing and bathed in her own blood. The faithful of her house and neighbourhood then flocked into the room to receive the last breath of the dying martyr. For two days and nights, she continued hovering between life and death; and on the third morning the venerable Bishop, Urban came to take leave of his beloved daughter. Her dying request to him was, that the poor she had always loved should be cared for and that her house should be made a church forever. Soon after she breathed forth her pure spirit to God.
​
The body found incorrupt in A.D. 1599. Nearly eight hundred years afterwards, Cardinal Sfondrati, of the title of St. Cecilia, made considerable alterations in the church, and in course of his excavations in the sanctuary, came upon a wide vault beneath the altar. Two marble sarcophagi met his eyes. Trustworthy witnesses had already been summoned, and in their presence one of these sarcophagi was opened. It was found to contain a coffin of cypress wood . The Cardinal himself drew back the coffin lid. First appeared the precious lining and silk gauze with which Paschal had covered the body nearly eight centuries before. Its colour had faded, but the fabric was still entire, and through its transparent folds could be seen the shining gold of the robes in which the martyr was clothed. After pausing a few moments the Cardinal gently removed this silken covering, and the virgin form of St. Cecilia appeared in the very same attitude in which she had breathed her last on the pavement of the house, and which neither Urban nor Paschal had ventured to disturb. Lying on her right side, with her arms extended in front of her body, she looked like one in deep sleep. The head was turned downwards, the knees were slightly bent. The body was perfectly incorrupt, and by a special miracle retained, after more than thirteen hundred years, all its grace and modesty, and recalled, with the most truthful exactness, Cecilia breathing forth her soul on the pavement of the bath.
All Rome came to see the virgin martyr, whose body lay exposed for veneration for the space of four or five weeks; and when the tomb was again closed on St. Cecilia's day, 1599, the Pope himself sang the Mass. Cardinal Sfondratierected the beautiful high altar which now stands over the Saint's tomb, and beneath it be placed an exquisite statue by Maderno, the foremost sculptor of the day, who had frequently seen the body, and made an exact copy of it in the very posture in which it lay.
Notable relics in this basilica
St. Cecilia and her husband St. Valerian
Exterior of the basilica
Singing in the basilica of St. Cecilia
Statue by Stefano Maderno
The crypt under the basilica
3. Basilica of Our Lady in Trastevere
Italian: Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere
One of the most venerable of all the Christian buildings in Rome.
Its history reaches much further back than the time of Constantine. The historian Lampridius relates that during the Pontificate of Callixtus I the Christians were in possession of a place of assembly in Trastevere, their right to which was, however, disputed by the corporation of popinarii, or tavern-keepers. The question was brought before the Emperor Alexander Severus, who decided in favor of the Christians, saying that it was better that God should be worshipped there, in whatever fashion it might be, than that the place should be given over to revelry.
The mosaics in the façade are of the twelfth century. They represent our Saviour throned between angels. The ceiling, richly decorated, has a beautiful painting of the Assumption, by Domenichino.
Notable relics in this basilica
The bodies of St. Callixtus I and St. Calepodius, martyrs, the shrines of SS. Cornelius, Julius and Quirinus, martyrs, and a rich treasury of relics, shown to the faithful on certain feasts.
Father explains the significance of this basilica
Exterior of the basilica
Ornate interior of the basilica
3. Basilica of St Chrysogonus
Italian: San Crisogono
On the ceiling of the nave is a copy of Guercino's Triumph of St. Chrysogonus, the original of which was stolen at the beginning of the eighteenth century and found its way to England. The Saint was a martyr, who was beheaded in the persecution of Diocletian, his body being cast into the sea. The devotion of the early Church to him is attested by the insertion of his name in the Canon of the Mass.
In the right aisle may be seen the tomb of Venerable Anna Maria Taigi, who died in 1857.
​
About Blessed Anna Maria Taigi:
She was an Italian Catholic who married Domenico Taigi at age 20. Domenico was a brash and impulsive individual. As the decree for Anna’s beatification stated, Domenico’s “manners were rough and uncultured and his temperament undesirable.” His turbulent manner and quick temper caused Anna much suffering, but it also caused her to exercise the virtues of patience, kindness, meekness, humility, and forgiveness. Over time, she learned that a smile and silence often appeased his anger. He never was physically abusive to her, but he acted somewhat as a tyrant at times. Nevertheless, he loved her deeply, which became obvious by the grateful and sincere testimonies that he gave during the official process of her beatification. Her relationship with him sanctified her soul in ineffable ways, and it speaks to the hearts of all those who are enduring difficult marital situations.
​
In 1790, Anna experienced a sudden religious conversion when she came into contact with a range of cardinals and luminaries. Following this, she became a professed member of the Secular Trinitarians. Throughout her marriage, Anna Maria bore seven children, three of whom died in childhood. The remaining two boys and two girls were richly blessed by her loving and attentive concern for their religious, moral, and academic education.
​
In 1863, Anna Maria was given the title of Servant of God and she was beatified on May 20, 1920. At her beatification ceremony, Pope Benedict XV spoke of her as being an exemplary wife and mother amid poor and trying circumstances. She was frequently in ecstasy and worked miracles of healing, read hearts, foretold deaths, and saw visions about the coming of future events. For example, she foretold the first two world wars of this century. Eighteen years after her death, her body remained perfectly preserved as if it had been just buried the day before.
​
Blessed Anna Maria Taigi lends us a beautiful example of what it means to live a life of total self-giving as a wife, mother, and friend of Our Lord. In her, we may find a true companion and a source of consolation during difficult times. Her wisdom can fortify our souls and give us the strength to carry on.
​
Source: https://www.ncregister.com/blog/anna-maria-taigi-wife-mother-mystic
Notable relics in this basilica
Blessed Maria Taigi
Incorrupt body of Blessed Maria Taigi
Exterior of the basilica